ilanarama: profile of me backpacking.  Woo. (hiking)
Ilana ([personal profile] ilanarama) wrote2008-08-07 10:45 pm
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yet another Weminuche Wilderness backpacking trip

Britt's birthday was August 1. I asked him what he wanted to do for his birthday; I shouldn't have been surprised. We planned out a big loop: up the Pine River to Emerald Lake (not the one we went to two weeks ago) and then Moon Lake, a dayhike to peak-bag 13,684 ft. Mount Oso (something I've wanted to do for a long time; Oso is a distinctive mountain visible from much of the wilderness, and we tried to climb it a few years back via a ridge from Middle Mountain and were cliffed out), then a hike over the entertainingly-named Moon Rock Pass (to Rock Lake, of course) and then down Rock Creek to the Vallecito River and out. About 40 miles of hiking, lots of elevation change, fishing out the wazoo, and a shuttle between trailheads which Britt's brother agreed to do if we took him out to breakfast.

emerald

Our first day we hiked to the beautiful Emerald Lake (pictured above), which is the second-largest natural lake in Colorado. It is also 11 miles and 2000 vertical feet from the Pine River trailhead. Along the way, we encountered two college girls from Chicago who were working at a dude ranch nearby and who had no real hiking gear or experience (and therefore asked us all sorts of questions about ours, which we were delighted to answer) but nonetheless were determined to make it to Emerald Lake. (They did. I hope they made it back!) We also met Ian and Tad, two seasonal rangers who were cutting trees that had fallen across the trail. And we saw flowers and wildlife, and had trout for dinner. The next day we hiked up the beautiful Lake Creek valley to Moon Lake, where we again had trout for dinner, chilled out at the edge of the lake, then camped in the shadow of Mt. Oso.

ian bambi

waterfall moon camp1

(I should point out that Mt. Oso's summit is actually the triangular point to the right of the apparently highest point in that last picture. The high knob is actually a lower but closer point on the ridge. Also, our camp was not nearly so tidy two days later.)

The next morning we set out to climb Mt. Oso. In doing so we got some awesome views of Moon Lake; from above, you can see that it got its name from its crescent shape:

moon lake 2 full moon

There's no trail up Oso. Instead we grunted up talus slopes and grassy ramps and mixtures of the two until we finally gained the long ridge leading to the summit. (Which we had to ourselves. Yay for cameras with automatic timers!)

ridge summit shot

From the summit we enjoyed the views of the surrounding mountains and lakes for an hour or so, then headed back down, past waterfalls and marshy meadows.

The following morning we hiked over Moon Rock Pass to Rock Lake. It started raining just after we got to Rock Lake, but I was in an absurdly happy mood and couldn't keep from grinning as we headed down the Rock Creek trail. Incidentally, the mountain behind me in that last picture is the Guardian, another high peak (13,619 ft.) that we climbed in September 1994.

moon rock pass moon rock view

rock lake guardian

We found a nice campsite along Rock Creek that came complete with its own resident marmot and of course lots of fish for dinner. In the morning we hiked down the creek, with ample fishing stops. [ETA: fixed the duplicate/missing photo, aie!]

rock valley rock creek

rock creek 2 rock creek 3

Near the confluence with the Vallecito River, a mineral seep entirely changes the character (and the color) of Rock Creek. There's no life in the creek here, nor in the Vallecito for some miles, until enough side streams come in to dilute the minerals. We camped five miles or so down the Vallecito, far enough that there were trout again for Britt to catch. The next morning we had to cross the Vallecito, which has become quite an ordeal since an avalanche in the winter of 04/05 destroyed the bridge. Let me just say that wading through rapid, mid-thigh-deep, icy water does not rank high among my personal list of pleasures.

red rock creek vallecito crossing

On our final day, we were the slowest hikers in the world, as we stopped every few yards to eat wild strawberries, huckleberries (kind of like blueberries), thimbleberries (kind of like raspberries), and raspberries. Around us, butterflies chowed down on flower nectar. Eventually we made our way to the trailhead and back to civilization. Alas.

Who needs words? Just show me the photos.
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[identity profile] sobelle.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 04:58 am (UTC)(link)
OMG! how incredibly fabulous!!

I'm still luxuriating in the beauty of your photos but had to stop and comment on the summit shot of you two... you look as though you are standing on the roof of the world!! wow!....

now back to my vicarious traveling =)
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 01:53 pm (UTC)(link)
Not quite the roof of the world, nor even the roof of Colorado - only the 157th highest peak in the state :-) But the nearest higher peak is almost 5 miles away, so even the higher peaks look lower. I think that's why I love hiking up mountains so much - the view is just so wonderful.

Thanks so much for viewing and enjoying!
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[identity profile] kaiz.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 04:59 am (UTC)(link)
These photos are breathtaking! This one (http://www.flickr.com/photos/svwindom/2742035287/) was really striking; what a fascinating formation.
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 01:55 pm (UTC)(link)
Thank you! Britt and I were speculating on how Moon Lake might have been formed by the glaciers - how perhaps the rocks that were being pushed and squished along were so hard that they piled up, or they piled up against a big hard rock which broke through at the ends but stayed strong in the middle.
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[identity profile] mlyn.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 05:04 am (UTC)(link)
Whoooooeee! Happy birthday to Britt! I envy you your strength and endurance to do this.

ETA: Of course you were grinning nonstop; that's what happens when you get that mountain high. ;)
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 02:02 pm (UTC)(link)
Haha, when I get to his age I hope I'm still going as strong as he is. And yeah, I know you are discouraged about your AdventX progress and abilities, but all I can say is, keep at it, keep doing things, and you build that strength and endurance. (Also, age (to some extent) helps with endurance. Look at the ages of Tour de France and marathon winners. Give it five years.)

I'm really feeling pretty good about my backpacking strength this summer - but that's because I've spent, hmm. Fifteen days backpacking and another 10 or so dayhiking, since May?
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[identity profile] mlyn.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 03:16 pm (UTC)(link)
Good advice. Thanks. :)

[identity profile] j-s-cavalcante.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 06:24 am (UTC)(link)
Astonishingly beautiful. Wow. \o/
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 02:02 pm (UTC)(link)
Colorado thanks you! :-)

[identity profile] trickofthedark.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 06:58 am (UTC)(link)
Wow! Gorgeous!
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 02:03 pm (UTC)(link)
Thank you! We are just in training for coming to visit YOUR beautiful (adopted) country in another three months. (OMG must plan.)

[identity profile] trickofthedark.livejournal.com 2008-08-14 03:02 am (UTC)(link)
Ooh! LS is moving out soon, so we'll have a guest room available for you if you come by Wellington/Silverstream. Let us know the dates you might be by when you know them! =)
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-14 03:32 am (UTC)(link)
Yay, definitely coming to Wellington! I'll send you email when we have more figured out.

[identity profile] ptyx.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 10:21 am (UTC)(link)
Wow! Breathtakingly beautiful. And the deer... (is that a deer?)... is so lovely.
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 02:05 pm (UTC)(link)
Thank you! Yes, that's a deer - the ones which live near to town and wander in are much less shy, but this one was quite wary of us. Still, not wary enough to quit munching the plants.
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[identity profile] wildcelticrose.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 12:17 pm (UTC)(link)
Ooooh, that first picture looks like a painting
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 02:05 pm (UTC)(link)
Hee, any artist would have his or her hands full up here, I think!
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[identity profile] sdwolfpup.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 03:16 pm (UTC)(link)
Your photos are absolutely gorgeous. It looks like a really wonderful trip. :)
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 05:08 pm (UTC)(link)
Thank you! It was wonderful. I love getting out into the wilderness.

[identity profile] the_antichris.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 03:27 pm (UTC)(link)
Phew, those are gorgeous! *zeroes in on marmot and berries, not that I'm predictable or anything* (I found some late wild strawberries and early raspberries in Dawson. It was awesome.)
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 05:10 pm (UTC)(link)
Oh, I remember being up in Alaska and the Yukon in June and July and going nuts with the strawberries, salmonberries, and blueberries. I was joking to Britt that I ought to put up a sign on my back this trip saying, "Warning: Brakes for Berries."

[identity profile] de-wynken.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 03:31 pm (UTC)(link)
Very nice :)

Did you see any moose? We saw three a couple weeks up yonder.
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 05:11 pm (UTC)(link)
No moose, or even sign. When we were on the upper Pine early July, we saw lots of sign but no moose, although other hikers saw moose. I've seen moose on the upper Pine before, but nowhere else in the San Juans. You saw three! That's so cool.

[identity profile] de-wynken.livejournal.com 2008-08-09 01:28 am (UTC)(link)
I forget what trail it was on..Hurricaine Pass maybe. I have fuzzy pics..couldnt zoom in that far with the macro lens I was sporting at the time.

Wonderful!!

(Anonymous) 2008-08-08 04:50 pm (UTC)(link)
Wow, what a wonderful trip! Those photos are amazing. Thank you for sharing your experience.
-HikerGirl
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Re: Wonderful!!

[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 05:11 pm (UTC)(link)
Thank you for coming over from RW to take a look!
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[personal profile] trobadora 2008-08-08 04:54 pm (UTC)(link)
So beautiful. I wish I was there.
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 05:12 pm (UTC)(link)
I wish you were here, too :-)

[identity profile] aubrem.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 05:53 pm (UTC)(link)
These are spectacular. I'm fascinated by the flora. That one pic of monkshood by a lake - is it like delphiniums? Also, do you know what those plants are in the foreground of the 13th pic down? The pic where you have all your blue gear on?

I think you must feel like you own the world when you're on these backpacking trips - on a complete high.
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 07:29 pm (UTC)(link)
They are both in the Buttercup family but different plants, but you know what monkshood is? (I just looked it up.) It's Aconite! Wolfsbane! Now we can make a potion for Remus! *giggles wildly*

The plants in the rainy picture are skunk cabbage. They poke out of the soil in the high country pretty much as soon as the snow recedes, and they grow really really fast.

The variety and the ubiquity of alpine plants also fascinates me. Here you are in this extremely rough terrain, rocky soil, harsh weather, covered by snow most of the year - and yet, there are so many different plants! So many beautiful flowers!

[identity profile] barkley.livejournal.com 2008-08-08 10:29 pm (UTC)(link)
I love those lake shots. Gorgeous.
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-09 07:10 pm (UTC)(link)
The Weminuche has so many beautiful lakes!

[identity profile] nos4a2no9.livejournal.com 2008-08-09 12:50 am (UTC)(link)
*sigh* Such fabulous photos. And it looks you had an amazing time! Thank you very much for sharing your adventures.
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-09 07:10 pm (UTC)(link)
I'm pleased you enjoyed them! And yes, amazing time - this is why I'm not on LJ all that much these days - too much to do!

[identity profile] imkalena.livejournal.com 2008-08-09 02:21 am (UTC)(link)
Fabulous photos of an awesome trip! I only wish I had that kind of ambition. :)
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-09 07:11 pm (UTC)(link)
Thank you! I take the trips (and photos) so you don't have to. :-)

[identity profile] imkalena.livejournal.com 2008-08-10 01:26 pm (UTC)(link)
Seriously, you made me want to go to the mountains, and I never want to go to the mountains! My husband always wants to go to the mountains. Fortunately we have found a couple of compromises over the years. :)

In fact, I'm in training right now (your cue to laugh) for the Yellowstone camping trip in two weeks. I've made it 6 miles up and down the bluffs along the St. Croix, so maybe I'll be able to walk up Mt Washburn this year. :)
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-10 04:07 pm (UTC)(link)
Seriously, you made me want to go to the mountains, and I never want to go to the mountains!

Mission accomplished! Tell your husband he can send the money in small, unmarked bills. :-)

I haven't been to Yellowstone since I was a child. I really ought to go again. Have fun and hike yourself up those mountains - and yeah, it's a lot more fun if you are in shape for it, so keep on training!
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[personal profile] eisoj5 2008-08-09 12:19 pm (UTC)(link)
Freaking gorgeous. I love that we live in a place where you can go so quickly to red desert or green mountains!!
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-09 07:12 pm (UTC)(link)
Yes! That's exactly it! Being so close to both kinds of beauty is awfully convenient :-) Plus, when the mountains are covered with snow the desert is cool and lovely, and when it's too darn hot in the desert the mountains are perfect.

Have fun in Vegas!
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[identity profile] ignazwisdom.livejournal.com 2008-08-10 11:05 pm (UTC)(link)
What an awesome birthday present. :)
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-11 04:14 pm (UTC)(link)
And cheap, too! :-)

[identity profile] mergatrude.livejournal.com 2008-08-11 12:04 am (UTC)(link)
Another gorgeous armchair tour! Thank you for sharing - you're an excellent guide!
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[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-08-11 04:15 pm (UTC)(link)
Yay, thank you for coming along! I love to do fun things in beautiful places and then talk people's ears off about them. :-)

Any advice on planning a trip?

(Anonymous) 2008-10-03 03:54 am (UTC)(link)
I live in New Mexico and have always been fascinated with the SW areas of Colorado and how much beauty there is.... What sites did you use to plan your trip and which ones can you share with those who want to go backpacking up there in 09'....

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Re: Any advice on planning a trip?

[identity profile] ilanarama.livejournal.com 2008-10-04 07:13 pm (UTC)(link)
I'd be happy to give you advice by email: ilana @ windom.netrack.net. We didn't really use any resources other than maps to plan our trip as Britt's very familiar with the area, having grown up here.