The Pederü bus stop turned out to be at a solitary hotel/restaurant at the head of a valley. A road (with a few mountain bikers on it) switchbacked upward along the valley’s left side, and a trail (already beginning to fill with hikers) switchbacked upward along the valley’s left side. We shouldered our small packs, unfolded our hiking poles, stepped through the gate that kept the cows out of the hotel grounds, and started up the trail.

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