ilanarama: profile of me backpacking.  Woo. (hiking)
[personal profile] ilanarama
My ankle was still swollen in the morning, but I didn't care; no way was I going to be deprived of a second day of my vacation, especially since the day's walk would only be about seven miles. After a leisurely breakfast we strolled down the road into teeny-tiny Keld, where we poked our heads into the one-room museum and the small 'Well Being Garden' while we waited for Jon and Maura, the local walkers who'd be our guides.


Our route took us along and above the Swale, a pretty river with many waterfalls both along it and flowing into it from side streams. And as a river valley is a dale, this area is known as Swaledale, and yes, that's where the Swaledale sheep are from - and we saw plenty of them, as well as beautiful stone barns, which this area is also known for.

waterfall barn

We climbed above the Swale to the awesomely-named ruins of Crackpot Hall, a farmhouse built in the 17th century for the local lord's gamekeeper. (Alas, the name does not mean what your mind immediately went to, but is derived from 'cave of the crows'.) Its ruin was hastened by subsidence due to local lead mining.

Crackpot Hall rocky ruin

We crossed back over the Swale for a diversion to the small town of Muker for lunch. Here the route consisted of a flagstone path through the middle of fields of grass and buttercups intended as winter livestock fodder. At the Farmers Arms we had really tasty beef and veggies in giant Yorkshire puddings - standard pub fare, but it hit the spot on this chilly day. And, of course, we washed it down with some cask ale - for medicinal purposes for my ankle, of course. We were delighted to find Theakston's Old Peculier, which we'd been recommended to try, and indeed it was really good, one of our favorites of the trip.

paved path to Muker Old Peculier

(The tall white-bearded man is Jon, our local guide.)

After lunch we retraced our steps to the bridge, then continued on to Gunnerside through more and more fields of buttercups separated by stone walls, which we passed through via squeeze gates - no fat tourists allowed!

fields of buttercups Buttercups!

Does this squeeze gate make my butt look fat? squeeze gate

We had time to walk around and look at Gunnerside before our bus arrived, and one thing we noticed was the odd juxtaposition of centuries-old stone houses with slate roofs...on which were mounted photovoltaic panels! Britt and I had noticed the prevalence of solar panels throughout the UK (Britt is a partner in an agricultural/commercial solar company) - far more than in sunny southwest Colorado despite the much greater average cloud cover, because of incentives and what are called feed-in tariffs which guarantee a fixed rate for selling excess power back to the grid.

PV in England!

Total walk was 7.5 miles, with a total climb of about 350 ft.

keld to gunnerside map

Or just look at the 13 photos on Flickr.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-07-15 01:41 am (UTC)
traveller42: (Default)
From: [personal profile] traveller42
I am always amazed at how well everyone but the US is using renewables.


ilanarama: me, The Other Half, Moab UT 2009 (Default)

August 2017

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My running PRs:

5K: 21:03 (downhill) 21:43 (loop)
10K: 43:06 (downhill)
10M: 1:12:59
13.1M: 1:35:55
26.2M: 3:23:31

You can reach me by email at heyheyilana @


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